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Archive for October, 2010

Urg! The ocean keeps spitting me out day after day!

These last two days have been perfect surfing days weather wise yet they have been my most challenging so far. Pepe and I have been out of sync. I keep falling off of him. My timing of wave have been off. I feel like I’ve been paddling like crazy to get to the right spots yet I end up I stay right in the same place. I end up tumbling over and over in the whitewater with the waves pounding down on me like an angry lover. Now I know what it feels like to be a prison inmate getting beaten by soap hidden in a sock. Your body is definitely bruised but you have no marks to prove it.

It’s so hard to not be good at something. To walk away with no reward and to come back the next day and start all over again. It’s a very lonely feeling.  Of course I want to quit. But that’s the challenge of it – to not give up. A superhero would never give up.

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Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea by Jaimal Yogis

 

I just finish reading the book “Saltwater Buddha” and I absolutely loved it. I found it charming, funny, and full of life lessons. Maybe because I’ve started to realize that I am a buddhist not just practicing buddhism. For example, when your trying to live in Spain adjusting to the language, there will be a moment when you the table you look at will stop being a “table” and will start being “la mesa.”

I’ve been practicing buddhism for ten years so of course sunk into my psyche that I live and breath the philosophies of the middle path. As I was reading the “Saltwater Buddha” his analogies to surfing only made more sense and made me believe even more in myself. I wish more people could share this feeling of love and peace in their lives especially within themselves. And I think it is possible because life is all about perspective and perspective can be one of the easiest and hardest things to change depending on the person.

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Yesterday I went out but the ocean was unsurfable 1 to 2 foot swells and the surface was choppy – meaning waves are too soft for you to ride and the water is too bumpy for the board to stay even. But today it was better 3 to 5 foot swells but the surface was still choppy meaning you can ride these beginner waves and the water is still bumpy for your board to stay even. I think I’m saying this right. I’ve been trying to read and understand the weather and surf forecasting charts.

I decided to go out and test the waves today since I’ve been anxious to get out and test new Pepe. I want to get used to him and get in the rhythm of using him. Build a relationship with my board. That’s how I feel when I work with my art tools at my art studio in Queens. I feel like I know them all intimately. I feel connected to them. Like they understand me. It’s second nature when I use my tools at the studio, I don’t struggle when I use them.

In the first fifteen minutes we were in the ocean water, I wiped out right away and was turned upside down and inside out like I was in a washing machine. I came out of the water so disoriented I almost forgot where I was and I couldn’t figure out what direction I was facing, etc.  It took me by surprise and I had to sit on the sand for about five minutes to recover. At first, I was disheartened a I even thought about going home. I was thinking maybe I had gotten myself in over my head and maybe I should take lessons and blah blah blah. But then I took a few breaths and said to myself “dammit Ciara, don’t give up on yourself.”  and I remember the passage that I read in the book Saltwater Buddha.

“No one can teach you to surf” Rom often told me. We might talk about what the waves were doing, but never about surfing technique. Rom just let me figure it out. Yet over time, I gleaned a couple of essentials:

1. Understand your environment as much as possible.

2. Fear nothing.

I looked back at the ocean that had spit me out and realized that we were really just playing a game and I shouldn’t be taking it personally. This should be fun. The waves are choppy so paddling perfectly isn’t a goal today. The waves are perfect for body-boarding so let’s work on just popping up on the board in the whitewater. I jumped back into the ocean with no fear in my body and the waves knocked me over and over again as I tried popping up on my board. Thirty minutes later, I got closer and closer and finally I stood up on my board!

Of course, I did immediately fall down, but I did do it. So tomorrow I will be one step closer to standing for a longer period on my board. And I know I can do it and that’s all that counts. What a good day.

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Me and My Lola c. 1980

While I’m here in Southern California, I’m staying at my parent’s house. A place where my grandmother still does and always has lived. In the Philippines, you call your grandmother Lola, your grandfather, Lolo. It always confused the white people in the neighborhood. They would always say shocked “You can your grandmother by her first name!?!”

My grandmother, Marina, has lived quite an interesting life before she retired from nursing to gardening orchids in the backgard and watching the cooking channel daily. (Now the details have been purposely been kept hazy in the family because these things are taboo to talk about so you fact checkers out there might run into some bumps but here’s what I know so far) During the Japanese-Philippines war, Marina, a young teenage girl at the time, and her seven siblings were unfortunately orphaned when their parents were killed by Japanese soldiers. Marina being the oldest girl was able to take care of them by going to nursing school because at that time they paid nursing students to study.

Marina was very beautiful since she had a blend of features from her Chinese father and Filipino mother. She had many suitors since she not only very pretty, she was smart – she was in school. But the war and taking care of her seven siblings had toughened her and made her older in ways that time could never repair. She eventually did meet a man that stole her heart and he made her chase it for the rest of her life, my Lolo Christino.

I never knew much about my Lolo except for the fact he died when I was five. I didn’t even know the details about their life together until just a few years ago. I didn’t even know Lola was an orphan until just a few years ago either. Nor did I know that Lolo, Christino had several mistresses, several families at the same time, and just picked my Lola to marry.  At first, my mother had told me, Lolo had married my Lola then had children, but that wasn’t true! He married her after she my mom and her sisters and brother.

And of course, my Lola has never spoken a word of this to me or to my brothers. This has been whispers between sisters between cousins, whispers between neighbors, etc. My mom has finally spoken up to me about it, but now that she’s nearing retirement and doesn’t really give a damn anymore, she can’t really remember. I’m like “what!?! finally…when I actually what to know the gossip…you can’t remember!”

So the whole point to this is that my Lola is that she’s a lady of grit. She not soft and cuddly. I don’t hang out with her and have a cup of tea and talk about feelings. She’s a loner and very independent so she ignores everyone around her most of the time and does her own thing. We’re all very polite but sometimes you feel unnoticed, but today she handed me an article from the local newspaper of local surfing events for Halloween.

I couldn’t even believe it. I was so touched. We worry she has slight dementia so I didn’t even know if she knew what I was even doing here. I’ve been traipsing in and out of the house with all my surf gear thinking she wouldn’t even notice, but she did.  She not a lady of big gestures. But even a tiny vibration can cause a big wave.

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I took the new Pepe out to Huntington Beach today. It was a such beautiful day with light wind creating 3 to 5 foot waves. That’s what the pros call “ankle slappers” – perfect for beginners.  The waters were pretty empty so I perfected my turtle roll and paddling with pepe. Standing up, however, still didn’t happen, but I’m in for the long haul. Hey I’m just proud of myself that I’m really getting into shape. Just think a year ago, I was 20 pounds overweight and smoking.  I’m just giggy that at 31, I can still be a hot tamale.

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Gidget by Frederich Kohner, foreword by Kathy Kohner Zuckerman aka the real Gidget

 

 

 

Kathy Kohner Zuckerman aka the real Gidget waxing her board in Malibu, CA

 

While I was at the International Surfing Museum, I learned that the girl, now women, who inspired the making of “Gidget” is alive and well, and is still surfing it up in Malibu. I bought the re-released copy of the book Gidget written by her father who was a Hollywood screenwriter at the time.

It’s truly a fantastic read!  It’s about a headstrong teenage girl who learns surfing from a group of surfer dudes who don’t like her at first. But she then charms them with her smarts and grit.

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So I did it. I bought a surfboard. A used one, of course. A 6′ 10″ sakal fun board in great condition at a good price. As soon as I saw it, I knew it was mine. It was going to be the new and improved Pepe the surfboard.

After reading as these beginning surfing books and talking to several surfing experts, I was finally convinced that I need to get right equipment if I was going to accomplish my goal. BTW – if you want to get good service in Huntington Beach, go to the Rip Curl shop instead of Jack’s Surfboards. They are much nicer there. And they will talk to beginners without the condescending bullsh*t.

And even with the pop-up training I was doing, I realized that I was still using my toes as leverage. So I thought I could use the next five weeks to get off my toes and maybe never ever stand up on the board or I spend some dough up front and get the right board and actually surf while I’m here. A fun board is a hybrid between a longboard and shortboard. They are great for petite beginners for me.

 

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Jack's Surfboards in Huntington Beach

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My back was a bit sore from all the pop-up training out so I decided to take it easy on the body and stay out of the water and take pics of Huntington Beach. I especially needed to go back to the museum since I did a lousy job of taking pics the last time I was there. I only took two pics of the inside the last time I was there. I need to really catalog that museum so I can reference it when I’m in NYC.  While I was there today, I talked to two of the board of the directors and grabbed more museum information. I definitely love that museum!

Well, for the rest of the day, I ended up walking around Huntington Beach taking pictures of the downtown neighborhood. I need to catalog “surf city”. Since it’s October, it’s off-season, stores are empty of tourists, just locals hanging about. So I figure I would just walk around and take pictures of locals. I started out in a good chatty mood. Usually people are interested in the Surfer Girl project and can converse in complete sentences, but since I ended up talking with surfer men/boys it became this whole different beast.

I don’t even know why I walked into Jack’s but they guy at the museum said I should go “because it’s the oldest surfboard store” so I thought I should. Also I wanted to ask about skateboards because I want to eventually buy a skateboard. So you can only imagine this is a giant retail store filled with young men OC-type men who know alot about the surfing and skateboarding culture. They might not even know how to actually skate or surf hence be a poser not a player. Which is always be big big big no-no in OC.

Hence the greatest pressure in the life young of a surfer or skater. Back to my story…As I’m talking to Jack’s retail employee about what I want and what I’m doing here on my Surf Pray Love hiatus I see that he’s testing me on whether I’m a player or poser by condescendingly offering me surfing tips, I stop talking because I realize what’s happening. It’s like I just realized he’s peed on my leg. And I think for a minute I can either stoop to his level and pee on his leg and mark my turf,  or I can walk away and be the better player, I mean person.

So of course, I thank him for his time and tell him that he’ll see me around soon enough. Urgh. But seriously why does this stuff has to exist? I remember this stuff from when I was first learning to surf. It’s why I stopped learning when I was a teenager. I was so intimidated by all the boys out there in the surf. NO MORE!

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As you know, I’m training myself to surf a short board. And it’s pretty damn hard since I only learned to surf a long board around 15 years ago. I went online last night to look at some training videos about popping up on short boards last night. I ran across this good training video that also sold towels with a cheat sheet on it. I wanted to buy a towel but they only sold them overseas so I thought “hey I can make that myself.”

The hardest thing about popping up on a short board is that you can’t use the power of your feet to bounce up. It’s all upper body strength to pull your body forward. That’s why most people start surfing with a long board because you can use your feet to pop up then progress to a short board. I digress.

I went to Target and got a $9 yoga mat. Traced Pepe. Got scissors and cut out the outline. Made the other markings. And then whammo. I already started practicing my pop ups. I’ve already gotten much better at hitting my mark. I think I will be able to stand up on my board when I hit the beach tomorrow.

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So I didn’t head out to the beach today because of rainy weather and choppy surf conditions at Huntington Beach. Instead, I practiced popping up on Pepe, my newly named shortboard, in my parent’s pool. Fortunately the pool is pretty large so I can paddle around and practice standing up without hurting myself. All of this in the rain, by the way. It hasn’t been all that sunny while I’ve been here. But it really hasn’t bothered me at all.

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